| Indian
River County Extension Service 1028 20th Pl, Suite D Vero Beach, FL 32960 772-770-5030 Indian@mail.ifas.ufl.edu |
FOR RELEASE: 23 February 2003
Daniel F. Culbert, County Extension Director
WHAT'S HOT IN FLORIDA YARDS (Part II)
Today's column is the second part of a presentation on current landscaping
issues in our local Florida Yards. The presentation was made at
Gardenfest!, and is based on review of the kinds of questions that have
been presented to our Master Gardeners over the last year.
CITRUS TREE QUERIES
Some common questions presented to our Master Gardeners deal with another local
landscape signature - our citrus trees. Issues seem to heighten when the
flowers fail to appear on young trees (they are just not old enough to bloom),
how to deal with the pests on the newly emerging leaves in March, June and
September (bring it in to identify), how to prune it like I see in the groves
(don't), and how to rejuvenate that old tree into a new one (it might be less
effort to replant).
We have several new citrus pests in the groves which can impact our dooryard
trees. Citrus Canker has not been found in our county - YET. Stop by
the Master Gardener office or our website and take a look at a photo of what
canker looks like. If you think you have it, DON'T bring it in.
Call for help. Some of the property owners in SE Florida are embroiled in
a legal battle and want to keep their canker exposed trees. Does it make
sense to keep a tree that will die from diseases, not to mention that will
contribute to the demise of one of our keystone economic industries of our
state?
Many dooryard citrus pests can be managed with horticultural oils and
insecticidal soaps. Bring these pests in to identify them first and to
learn if sprays are really needed; often they are not. For example, there
is a "friendly fungus" that looks like a scale insect that actually
consumes scale insects. Besides specific pests, we find that many dooryard
citrus trees are starved and over watered. Citrus trees need to be fertilized
three times a year with a blend of fertilizer designed specifically for citrus
trees. Irrigation should be applied to the root zone, but the leaves and trunks
should not be irrigated. (That is, of course, unless the roots have
suddenly popped out of the bark or foliage).
ANTS OR TERMITES?
Next on the list compiled by Master Gardener Alan Morton were the many questions
we field about those creepy crawlies found inside the home. Number one household
insect question: is it an ant or a termite? (Answer, does it have a thin
waist or thick belly?)
As far as termites are concerned, there is little that the homeowner can do by
themselves if they have termites. Best thing is to arm yourself with some good
information from our office on how a termite lives (and can be killed) and how
to buy pest control services. Then, call several professionals, listen to
their proposals, and choose the one that best suits your needs. We can't
offer referrals to specific companies, so our advice there is, ask your
neighbors and friends if they have had good service from one of our local
termite experts.
Take a good look at the new termite baiting techniques to see if they can be
useful in your situation. If you are building a new home, get educated on
the new laws concerning termite pretreatments used during construction.
And here's a final piece of advice: termites will not cause your home to fall
down overnight: so spend a little time first learning how to think like a
termite before you make your necessary economic choices.
There are many different kinds of ants, and several excellent products that can
be used to keep them under wraps. Some of the best ant control products
are a clean kitchen, good moisture management, tight fitting windows and doors,
and a caulk gun. If you see ants indoors, don't freak out and hit them
with the spray can. Watch them carefully for a moment, see where they are
headed and where they came from, and then you will know where to place that bait
or where to close that void.
Outside, fire ants are another story. There are some neat management ideas
on the horizon for controlling fire ants, like a fly that lays its egg in the
ant, causing the fire ant to lose its head. I've heard a lot of wild stories out
there about home remedy fire ant solutions - they are all amusing, but
ineffective. But for now, use the baits to control the mounds as they
appear in dryer times for best control, and use the contact insecticides if that
mound is in a place that requires immediate relief. Another outdoor pest is the
white-footed ant. It too will need carefully considered chemical treatment
for relief. Bottom line - Read the pesticide label- the Label is the Law!
And our final cluster of popular questions according to Alan deal with turf.
Right now our lawns look brown, and that is frustrating to many. Here's a couple
of ideas to think about: first, the grasses we use for turfgrass here in Florida
are all TROPICAL. This means that when NIGHT temperatures are below 70
degrees Farenheight, the plants go dormant.
Secondly, return to some of my earlier comments about cold temperatures -
frost will kill grass leaves, but the stems and roots will recover quite nicely
when we warm up. Finally, take a good hard look about the functionality of
turf in your landscape.
Turf works well to hold soil in place and is outstanding as a means to absorb
excessive nutrients and runoff. But it is a higher maintenance item in the
landscape, and few of us have the resources need to have our own personal golf
course or athletic field in our front yard.
Growing good grass require three basic ingredients: proper watering, proper
fertilization, and proper mowing. Established turf needs ½ inch of
moisture every week, and don't water again until the grass just starts to wilt.
Get to know your time clock, where it is and how it is adjusted. Having it turn
on for 10 minutes does not necessarily mean that the right amount of water is
being applied. Irrigation frequency is a big issue with our turf
irrigation. "Every other day, whether it needs it or not - all
throughout the year" is wasteful and contributes to turf diseases. It
may also be illegal. Ask our Master Gardeners about sprinkler calibration.
Turf fertilization is necessary for good grass, but don't overdo it. For our
local situation, I've found that a 16-4-8 granular fertilizer with slow or
controlled release nitrogen applied twice a year will encourage healthy St.
Augustine or Bahiagrass, but should not contribute to nutrient pollution
of our Indian River Lagoon. If that recipe scares you, please see our
Master Gardeners for more information.
And mowing: when this task is DONE, the grass should be 3-4 inches high if you
have a conventional grass lawn . A closer shave will damage the plant and
result in shallow roots, which will mean more frequent irrigation, increased
fertilization, and get you into an endless circle of solving problems.
The number one turf weed in our area is dollarweed. The solution is often
- turn off the water. Dollarweed is an aquatic weed, and few of us have
lakes as our lawns. The number one turf insect is the chinch bug.
Excessive fertilization or drought stress are often the real culprit with this
little sucker. Follow the rules and you avoid these problems.
If you have turf weeds, be sure to have them identified first. Then our
Master Gardeners can pull out the University of Florida herbicide
recommendations and offer you some temporary, quick-fix solutions.
But use these chemicals only as "medicine" that will help discourage
these problems as you get back to the basics of good lawn care.
And speaking of weeds, remember seeing all those robins a few weeks back?
While they were here, they were enjoying their meals by visiting local Brazilian
Pepper trees. Which means that a new crop of pepper seedlings will soon be
on its way. Pick them out from below your trees, fenced and power lines,
favorite roosting places for these birds. If you wait too long, they will
become woody shrubs and trees that will take a lot more effort to keep in check.
THANK YOU INDIAN RIVER COUNTY
For those of you who may not have heard, I will be taking on a wonderful
opportunity to initiate a new Extension Horticulture program - in
Okeechobee County - beginning in March. I've been asked by the University
of Florida to participate in the greater Everglades restoration efforts by
training pesticide applicators, assisting the nursery, turf and landscape
industries, and establishing a new Master Gardener program for the residents of
Okeechobee.
Nine years ago I initiated the local Extension horticulture program here in
Indian River County. I've seen our county grow in the number of informed
residents who have learned to combine good environmental stewardship with
beautiful landscaping. I hope that if you are not familiar with the
Florida Yards & Neighborhood program, you will stop by and learn about it
from our Master Gardeners.
As your Horticulture agent, I've enjoyed writing over 240 columns for the Press
Journal, making hundreds of visits and public presentations, answering thousands
of calls and office visits to local residents. I feel confident that I've
helped improve the technical competence and professionalism of our pest control
industry. But I really feel that what has made this possible in many
respects is the dedication and service of a couple of hundred really special
people who care about horticulture - your
very own Indian River Master Gardeners.
There are currently 60 of these folks right now in the county , and I'm sure
that they can handle many of your needs for unbiased research based information
while the University of Florida and Indian River county secure a new
horticulture agent for this county. I thank you all for your continued
interest in Florida Friendly landscaping.
If you need additional information, consult our website at http://indian.ifas.ufl.edu
or call or stop by our office. For questions about Florida Yards, our
office holds Master Gardener Clinic hours at the Extension office (1028 20th
Place, Suite D,
Vero Beach) during office hours, Wednesday morning at the North County Library
in Sebastian, and the second and fourth Saturday of the month at the
Environmental Learning Center. Our phone number is 770-5030, and you
can email us at indian@ifas.ufl.edu